FASHION AND CINEMA: FIVE OF OUR FAVOURITE DESIGNER FILM COLLABORATIONS
The modern fashion system has developed along side its capitalist cousin: Film. It's pretty typical to find a selection of cinematic references when we peel back the layers of any contemporary designers latest collection. Some designers return to the same films and genres of film time and time again - we all know of Raf Simons's affinity for Twin Peaks, and Giorgio Armani's love for Italian Noir cinema. What is less explored it seems is the reverse - the influence of fashion designers on film. Here are some of our favourite films with designer wardrobes.
ROMEO AND JULIETTE
Baz Luhrmann's 1996 Crime and Romance adaptation of Shakespeare's tragedy Romeo and Juliette goes down in history as one of the most intriguing and innovative uses of contemporary - now archive - fashion as a vessel for story telling. Dolce & Gabbana's discontinued diffusion line, D&G, and Prada were chosen to outfit Lurmann's cast of A-listers by costume designer Kym Barrett. D&G for the Capulets, and Prada for the young Montague Romeo (played by Leonardo Di Caprio). The energy, grit and sex oriented D&G, and the refined lines and sensuality of Prada play off one another as a narrative device. Both Italian designer brands, they were a fitting choice for "Fair Verona". Aside from the nuances, the fashion in Romeo and Juliet is undeniably cool.
STRANGE WAY OF LIFE
Those connecting Yves Saint Laurent to cinema usually reference Belle de Jour, but In 2023 the house set up SAINT LAURENT PRODUCTIONS under creative director Anthony Vaccarello. The fashion house’s first film under its new production arm, Strange Way Of Life, premiered at the 76th Cannes Film Festival in 2023 – directed by Spanish director Pedro Almodóvar, and costumed entirely by Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent. Vaccarello beat Pharrel Williams to the Western aesthetic - Williams presenting a cowboy-inspired Louis Vuitton collection for AW2024 which felt a little late.
ALIEN COVENANT
Craig Green costumed Ridley Scotts 2017 Alien sequel Alien Covenant. The pairing of genre defining sci-fi horror and Craig Green's particular brand of utilitarian luxury was one of brilliance.
AMERICAN GIGOLO
Paul Schrader's 1980 crime thriller American Gigolo was Giorgio Armani's first foray into costuming cinema. Richard Gere's iconic performance as the high-end male escort Julian was enhanced by the sleek sexiness and quiet luxury of Armani clothing. Catherine Perry wrote that the directors use of Armani revealed a "young, urban sophistication" and seductive elegance which would go on to define mens style ideals from then on. One scene depicts Julian's morning routine in his walk in wardrobe - featuring whole drawers stocked high with Armani branded shirts and ties, and an array of two piece suits in every shade of 'Greige'.
SHAFT
John Singletons Action Crime film Shaft was released in the year 2000. In collaboration with costume designer Ruth E.Carter, Giorgio Armani developed a Giorgio Armani wardrobe for Samuel L. Jackson and Vanessa Williams characters John Shaft II and Carmen Vasquez. For Toni Collete's character Diane Palmieri, the pair designed a wardrobe from Armani's youth oriented sub-line Emporio Armani.
TANK GIRL
For the punk Sci-Fi film Tank Girl by director Rachel Talalay, Rick Owens helped design several costumes. Then relatively unknown, fashions lord of darkness co-created Tank Girl's (Lori Petty) iconic military/denim/leather jacket mash-up.
